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jcclink last won the day on September 17 2014

jcclink had the most liked content!

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About jcclink

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    Great Hammerhead

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    San Diego

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D300, 10-17mm DX, 12-24mm DX, 17-55mm DX, 60mm, 105mmVR
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    S&S YS110's & 27's
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms

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  1. You are correct. My reply was based on my shooting technique (or lack there of) of holding shutter release 1/2 way while trying to AF. When that fails I go to MF but keep holding the release - force of habit.
  2. Another feature of the 105 VR is the AF/M lens setting. Auto focus with manual over ride. No special port, nothing to reset on camera to go from auto to manual focus. Just need the focus gear. 1/2 press shuttle release, barely move the focus control on the housing & you have manual focus (as long as the release remains at 1/2). The VR lens has much faster AF than the old version. I agree that the VR does very little u/w. You will end up with both the 60 & 105.
  3. I'm upgrading my D300 system to D7100 or D7300 (more rumors) & would like to shoot occasional video. Rented a D7100 to test drive. Trying to get AF to work in video mode, but can't find a combination of settings that work during changes in distance, except 1/2 pressing shutter release. Do I need to be using manual focus vs AF? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  4. Have you considered Nexus? They are very compact & light weight compared to some of the other makes. Threaded ports so no need for a locking system. Simple design with all the controls. I've been very happy with Nexus housings for my D70 & D300. Will upgrade soon (probably to D7100) & will buy another Nexus.
  5. Has anyone used the 7d mk ii underwater yet? Pros & cons? Housing?
  6. Hope to be the owner of the new 7d Mk II soon, which means that I have to purchase all new lenses. (Currently using a D300) I know I need a 60 macro, 100 macro & Tokina 10-17. Depending on housing I may be able to use my existing u/w ports. What lenses should I consider for topside photos? Need to cover wide-angle thru 400mm. Thanks.
  7. J - You need 2 identical camera bodies anyway so you have a backup On a trip several years I had 2 D70 bodies fail in the same manner over a 10 day period. Something about the shelf life of a micro processor that controls read/write to the CF card.
  8. Tim, I understand what you're saying. Hoping I could sell things that I no longer could use (not only DX's). Probably for not for a lot of $$ due to age, but any amount would help. I'm also hoping for good video with a new camera (D300 has none). I've generally heard that Canon has better video than Nikon for this level camera. For me at this stage it's more about features & a few more pixels than brand. Like to stay with Nikon but......... You're correct that a new lens package would be a big part of a brand change. New bodies, housing, maybe ports & misc costs would be similar for either brand.
  9. My D300 is 7+ yrs old with lots of shots taken. It doesn't look like a "D400" will ever show up. I'd like to stay with the DX format vs going to FX, but would like more pixels. What's some good reasons to change sides & become a Canon user? Is this my best chance to upgrade for the foreseeable future?
  10. Try a +3 or +4 to see if that helps. Had similar issues several years ago with different setup. More diopter made a noticeable difference.
  11. If you're diving Komodo take a reef hook & inflatable sausage. And keep your dive guide in sight. Conditions can change quickly at a few sites. Currents are affected by the tide but in some areas there may still be some current even at slack tide. If you want to hang out with schools of fish you will be in a current. No current - no fish in general. Some dive operators/boats seem to have a fixed dive schedule & may not pay that much attention to the tidal currents. On the bright side, if current is ripping at a site come back in 3 hrs - it will be a lot less. Other than that Komodo offers great diving. Most site are relative calm most of the time. Cannibal Rock is a must for critters. I've dove Komodo on 3 trips from a liveaboard. Don't recall more than a couple of dives on the whole trip where current was really ripping. (Fast drift dive - no photos.) I have no problem going back again. Diving Alor in Nov for the first time. Haven't heard much about strong currents.
  12. Suggest that you purchase a complete set of spare o-rings for the entire housing configuration (factory rebuild kit). Also get a set of c-clips that go on the control shafts. Before disassembling anything with o-rings its good to have spares standing by just in case. If you're sending the viewfinder off for service, ask Ike to include a rebuild kit when they return the viewer. Not sure of the cost for the kit. If your housing hasn't been serviced for a few years it might be time to do that. ALL o-rings & c-clips should be replaced at this time.
  13. http://www.laluzoptics.com/products.html Take a look at these lights. I've been very happy with the quality & performance of my L800 (now replaced by the L1000). 3 power settings, good battery life (separate charger), slip-on red filter. Great prices.
  14. Try locking focus on your fin. If you want to focus at 3 ft actual distance you must focus at the virtual image equivalent distance which is substantially less.
  15. Take a look at these new lights. I use the discontiued 800 for focus light & have been very satisfied with quality & performance. The prices are far less than other popular options. http://www.laluzoptics.com/products.html
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