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About influid

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    Sea Nettle

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 5D MK2
  1. Cheers! However, I'm not sure to understand regarding the timing of the bursts. Do you mean the IR protocol ? Additionally, here's GentLED feedback: ============================================= This is tricky. You can remove the black plastic housing, that reduces the size to 38x24x13mm, but that excludes the toggle switch that sticks out. See the jpg I attach, you can see the shape is not square so that may help? Note that the IR light comes out of the top side and this must point to the IR sensor on the camera. It needs to be within 5cm and doesnt need to be straight towards it. For a small charge we could make one without box and with IR LED on short wire so you can lead it nearer camera sensor? This is a little fragile but once installed in housing it may be good Does this help? James ============================================= In the Aquatica housing, the largest space I can figure is underneath the camera on the left. But the toggle switch might stick out too much from the back of the camera against the housing's lip. Maybe a replacement with a push switch is enough. With the IRled pointing from the left front underneath the camera, the 5D sensor might catch the signal.. Otherwise, I asked for a quote with a short wired IRled and if the wired IRled can be easily replaced. Standard unit is currently 30 pounds so it's worth a try.
  2. Nicely done! That's one tiny unit. The 4 DIP switches trigger the Infrared LED, 3 for the timings (5, 10, 20) and 1 on/off, that's right ? Are these pages the Canon's version of the Nikon's protocol you used ? http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/eos_ir_remote/ http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/rc-1_hacked/ Is there enough info to be started ? I know close to nothing in electronics but a friend of mine does and could give a hand. (A bit more just in case: http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1198744543/3 Also, the Gentles are very small units: http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/trigger.htm I send an email for enquiry. Finally, is the infrared led directly facing the infrared receptor in your setup or can it be on the other side ? The biggest space I can find in the Aquatica 5D housing is on the lower left, underneath the camera on the left of the plate. In any case, thanks for pointing in the right direction!
  3. Hi, interesting timelapse discussion! Everyone probably seen it already but the Brinicle timelapse from BBC is always a marvel to watch. For timelapse, I usually prepare and export my frames to JPEGs from Lightroom, in a numbered sequence. Then, I import the files in After Effects or Premiere. In the import window, select your first image and check the "JPEG sequence" mark (lower left corner). It will be imported as footage into your project. Since it's imported from multiples files as a video, software must give the sequence a specific value of frames per seconds. If you drop this footage on your timeline, it will automatically create a composition with the same size as your images. No matter the framerate of the sequence, it will be imported with the same time length as showned in the property inspector of the footage in the project panel. In order to change your footage's framerate, right click on the image sequence in your project panel and select "├Ćnterpret Footage > Main". Change the value named "Assume this frame rate" to your needs and click OK. You'll notice the time length of the sequence has changed accordingly. You can duplicate the sequence as much as you want to experiment different settings. The Lightroom plug-in sounds really nice. Is the deflicker efficient ? For a custom intervalometer, I found this Arduino Canon Intervalometer webpage. Pretty advanced but I'd still be curious to know if it can be customized for underwater. Francois
  4. The isopranol suggestion from Aquatica worked. I can operate the main dial without slipping or even jumping. For those in Germany, isopropanol can be only be found in pharmacy. A bottle of 100 ml costs around 5 euros and contains 2-propanol. Problem solved, I'm ready to go. Cheers !
  5. Hi Stewart, I got some news from Aquatica as expected. But first, I tried to fix the screws and found the right size of allen for metric system: it's a 1,5 mm milimiter one and fits. For further info, here's an equivalence chart. However, the problem was not coming from the shaft itself. It does get loose when the 2 screws are untied. But it doesn't fix the rubber wheel from spinning around. The explanation is: remove the rubber wheel and clean it with rubbing alcohol of any trace of lubricant that might have contaminated it. Shit happens but this one can be cleaned. Uploaded with ImageShack.us I'll get my hands on rubbing alcohol and post the results here. And btw, it's a bad idea to glu it.
  6. Hi Stewart, many thanks for the tip. Indeed there's 2 tiny screws on the side of the shaft. Correct me if I get it wrong: by tightening the screws, it will block further the rubber wheel that sits on top of the shaft. It seems however I don't have the right size of allen wrench, either too loose inside or too big. I'll give it a test with the proper allen wrench and let you know if that fixed it. Best regards, Fran├žois
  7. Hello, the Aquatica housing for 5DMK2 I purchased recently and never dived with (but in the bathtub for testing) fails operate the main dial on the camera. The problem is the following: on the right side of the camera housing is the main dial access knob. This knob rotates gears inside the housing. At the end of the gears is a metal axis with a rubber wheel at its end. This rubber wheel is pressed against the main dial when the camera is inserted. Rotate the knob and you operate the main dial. However, in my housing, the rubber wheel is loose on its axis. When NOT under pressure, it rotates fine along the axis and stays in place. However, when the camera is inserted and secured in the housing with the saddle attached, it fails to rotate the main dial. It simply doesn't have enough grip and let the axis turns on its own. I contacted Aquatica just today and I'm sure I'll get a quick answer. However, I was wondering if any of you already had a similar issue. And if yes, I'm eager to hear about how you fixed it. Looking for a solution and trying to figure out what was the issue, I successfully removed the wheel from the axis, without any resistance. Of course, I wouldn't have pulled it away if I felt any kind of resistance. After its removal, the wheel goes back in place nicely but the problem remains. The wheel is roughly the same size as a tire on a lego car. So I thought I should find a way to fix it properly. One thing came to my mind: GLU. Since I never had to use glue in my previous housings (Sony DVcam, Olympus PT-5050, GoPro), I have no idea what are the risks related to the use of glu in this kind of environment. Also, maybe it's easy to remove for a good reason ! Fixing it might create more troubles than it solves. That's why I'd like to share some experience with you. Maybe I just miss something very simple. Like I said, it's the first time I operate such a housing. I'll keep the topic updated after Aquatica's reply. Feel free to drop a line if you have suggestions of questions, they are welcome. Bye
  8. Still valid ? I'm looking for an Aquatica 8" dome.
  9. PM sent, I'd be interested by the 8" dome and the 16-35mm zoom gear (ref 18708?) Bye!
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