tdtaylor

Another 26 dives last week with the Leak Sentinel, and worked just as it should. So far, about a hundred dives using the unit. I did replace the battery as a precaution 26 dives ago, and took twice to reassemble properly. Had to make sure the circuit board was firmly seated between within the o-ring. After that, no problems. Terry

Used my v3 Leak Sentinel in Bonaire for a week at the end of last month, and worked flawlessly. I did request a second cap, being that between this and the housing there are lots of small pieces to misplace. The second cap was sent immediately at a very reasonable price. Also, I use one on a Nauticam OM-D housing, and it reduces to the proper pressure in three strokes. I always add one more just for caution's sake.

I have the latest version with the LED indicators. I have only tried it in the pool- in two week to Bonaire. So far, flawless. After I screwed it into the accessory port, I did take off the top element and turn it around so that the LED faced the back. No problems so far, and easy to use. In light that we all seem to have a bazillion small parts to loose, I emailed and requested a "cap" and "pump cap," which are currently being forwarded to me for 10 euros- a deal if I ever heard of one- because I know I will loose something somewhere, at the worst possible time. TErry

I haven't used my 9-18 UW, but on land it is very sharp. Not quite as sharp as the 7-14, but very respectable. Do you get the same results on land. Might be worth a try to make sure the camera and lens are working well. If it works well, then it is an UW issue.

Wow, that would be an excellent addition.....if true.

I have the same issue- can't get into the securing nut to tighten it up. I have Nauticam's version, which does not have the Allen wrench. I have not found that the issue, rather I need to turn the securing nut against the post. When I turn the post, it just keeps turning "through" the securing nut into the housing until it bottoms out. Hope I wrote this clearly enough to understand. Terry

I have found that sTTL with the YS-D1 is not very reliable. I have 2 OMDs, tested both in the housing with several hundred shots, and another person has had the same issues. Settings same as above, as well as A and S settings on the camera. 3 or 4 shots will be correct exposure (with 4 to 5 seconds between with fresh batteries), then one frame will be completely overexposed. Later, one will be completely underexposed. About 70% were properly exposed. Tried it on three separate nights after disassembling and reassembling the setup each time, to make sure it was not some stupid error on my part. Macro or wide, same results. Maybe I am spoiled with the consistency of my full frame setup with electronic connections adn TTl exposure adjustments. Also, we have found the 4 "adjustment settings" for TTL (empty circle, half, quarter and full) have very little effect on the output of the strobes, as well as trying to adjust the strobe through the camera compensation. Have also verified my strobes are not one of the ones being recalled for firmware updates. With these issues I have been shooting in Manual with the strobes, with the camera set on 1/16 Manual flash setting. With these settings, the camera and strobes work fast, and in the little bit of time I have had with it since the battery life is greatly extended. Unfortunately, from now until March I won't be diving much (pool works and DiveCon training). Have to wait for the local diving to come back on line and a trip to Cayman Brac in March. P.S.- I had issues on a Mac updating the software to 1.5 from 1.4. Computer didn't recognize the camera. I restarted both the computer then the camera, and if I remember correctly, with a couple of tries, I then started the software then plugged in the camera. Both update fine after that, but it took some tinkering with it to get the combination/timing correct.

Too funny. But unfortunately, your very right ;-) Went out looking for sharks two weeks ago, and of course, I found 4 beautiful red tipped Sea Goddesses on a perfect small round black coral...maybe next time. Now, if I had had my 12-50 on instead of the 7-14, I could have pulled it off.

As noted in another thread, my setup is the same with the addition of a focus light, Nauticam flip diopter holder and Dyron +7 diopter, and Port 56, mine is about 11 pounds on land. With 6 jumbo Stix floats, it is about 0.25 pounds UW. Far lighter on land than my D700, Ikelite housing, Ikelite SB-160s,Ikelite tray, and focus light, which is about 22 pounds. Ironically, 8 Stix floats will make that rig about 0.25 UW. Shows how much airspace is in the Ikelite housing. When I weighed them in a tub with a luggage scale, they were both about 3 and a half pounds negative before the Stix floats.

I have been typically using 6 of the jumbo Stix blocks, depending on whether I use the 6 inch dome or a Macro port. My setup is very similar to jlyle's except I add a Sola Focus light, Nauticam Flip holder and a Dyron +7 diopter. With the Port 56 (14-42), I have used 6 of the Stix blocks and it is about a quarter to half pound negative. Next week I'll be using the 12-50 port, and probably will keep it at 6 (3 per arm), but will take 8 with me in case-they weigh very little. Nice thing about the blocks is you can add and subtract them quickly. The Nauticam Flexitray is not nearly as stiff as my previous Ikelite trays, but I have not found it to be an issue. It is indeed extremely flexible in that you can adjust and easily change the width and camera placement. Just make sure and go back after it is together and make sure all the fasteners are tight.

I have grown to like the flip, if only for the BC pocket issue. I changed the set screws on the mounting side of the flip and set them so the flip goes at a 45 degree angle up and to the left. This has mostly gotten rid of the issues I had which you mentioned above. I head out next week for a week diving, and since the new M77 to M66 flip is not available, and my travel BC has small pockets, I am giving this a try for holding filters for video. It is really not large enough for the diopters, but a Dyron +7 can just squeeze in if another filter in not in the opposite side. I have been using one of these for several years above ground, and being neoprene, thought I would be convenient UW. It is pretty easy to get a 77mm filter in either side with one hand and secure it in the holder. We'll see.... http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/289675-REG/OP_TECH_USA_0601122_FILTER_PACK.html

Well, I assembled the 12-50 zoom gear, and the instructions are clear enough. My issue was more user issues- the screws are very small, and between my bifocals and large fingers it was somewhat challenging to assemble. Fortunately I had the foresight to assemble it over a tray which repeatedly caught the dropped screws. Question- after assembling everything and installing it in the housing, do you have to turn the zoom knob on the housing with a fair amount of pressure to change the zoom length (as compared to other zoom gears). Also, it zooms slowly. Not so much a problem, because it will give a fair amount of control with video, but more a check to make sure I shouldn't need to pull out my aforementioned tray and disassemble/reassemble to zoom ring. The Macro/zoom switch on the port works fine. Thanks, Terry

I already figured I was headed down the path to a stepdown ring- I'm just getting spoiled by the flip, and not having to handle the diopter. I've read about holders for filters that attach to the strobe arms, so you don't have to throw them in a BC pocket. Anyone have a hint on where I can look. I'm taking a travel BC, so pocket space is at a premium. Thanks, Terry

As I have a good friend who is an astro physicist, I'll substitute Rocket Scientist. And yes, the instructions are very clear, they just go much beyond the typical zoom gear ;-)

My understanding is that the flip diopter for the 12-50 port that will hold the 67mm diopters is not available yet (Bluewater). My 12-50 port arrives tomorrow, and I would love to have the flip for a Live-a-board trip coming up the second half of October. As a side note, after glancing at the assembly instructions for the port for the 12-50, I might need a PHD.

I switched from FX (D700) to m4/3 (Nauticam and Oly OM-D) a couple of months ago. I could not be happier. I am finding the learning curve fairly easy. What little I give up in focusing speed, I gain heavily on the advantages from my humble opinion. Going from a 22-24 pound rig to a 11 pound rig, plus all the additional ports and lenses, has made travel much more pleasurable. I can now travel with the housing, 3 ports, 5-6 lenses, camera, backup camera, S&S flashes and accessories in a reasonable weight backpack and my regs/goggles/computer/laptop in a carry shoulder case without much issue. And now I can get everything else in one rolling duffle. Before, with the heavy DSLR lenses, ports, and strobes, much, including the housing went in the duffles, and I fought to keep two duffles under 50 pounds each and keep my backpack to a reasonable weight. The housing, two Ikelite 160s and an extra battery were alone 15 pounds. And it is much easier to get in, and "push" the unit through the water. My backup Canon S90 still goes in the duffle. I still heavily us my D700 for sports, wildlife and events, but the OM-D has become my travel and UW setup. I have even left my beloved Leica system in the closet since I got the OM-D. If anyone is interested in a full Ikelite setup for cheap let me know........

I was able to take the OM-D and the Nauticam housing to Cape Ann for the weekend, and could not be more pleased for a first outing. Light, responsive, makes hard shore entries easier, etc. I took the 14-42 (although I would much prefer the 12-50 or the 12-35), and was not expecting much, but have been very pleased, especially because the visibility was poor. Very few compromises considering the advantages. The level of detail in the original really surprised me. This was in surging current, fairly low light, 14mm, ISO800, 1/125 and f8. Focus was not a problem. Terry

Sea & Sea YS-D1s. I previously used Ikelite 160s with electronic control on a D700 in an Ikelite housing. Last night I took about 200 photos before taking the batteries out to recharge (just picked up a spare battery for the OM-D..... YEAH! finally). Up to that point I methodically went through settings in different scenarios to see the effects on the pictures. While the mis-steps may have been user error (like the entire image blown out or very dark), I was very carefully making sure focus was locked and the flash was ready to go on the camera. On a number of the mis-step, which would occur between good images, one of the strobes would not display the green TTL light after the exposure. I also varied which flash. This happened probably every 7-10 exposures, with probably 15 seconds between each exposure. Had the same issues when I switched to Manual exposure, with the pre flash (double lighting bolt). The strobes would not fire without the pre-flash (single lighting bolt), and I suppose this was correct, because the camera must be sending out a pre-flash. By the way, the OM-D manual only mentions pre-flash twice- under red eye settings, and in the spec chart in the back associated with TTL Exposure. I can say my Ikelites were close to 100% on TTL, only needing tweaking on the back dial to accommodate for macro, WA or CFWA. And I have not had issues with the flash for land-based photos. Thanks, Terry

Already been thinking along those lines about the dome vs. flat at 12mm. Is this an issue with the 12-50? Are they getting around the issue of flat port at wide mm somehow? The zoom ring for the 7-14 does not quite fit the Pany 12-35- close, but no cigar. Nauticam is now listing a zoom ring for the 12-35 in the lens/ring/dome "matrix" (it is new) on the Nauticam website. I contacted Nauticam, and they are not producing the zoom ring yet, instead focusing on the 12-50 set. It is evidently not on the dealers price list at this date. The matrix says the Pany 12-35 works with both the 6 inch dome and the 4 inch dome. WIll be interesting to see once it comes out. On a separate topic.... I was in the pool last night for a first test of the Nauti housing- it is a delight to use, and the buttons are easier to use than directly on the camera. TTL worked fine. I was not having success with Manual Flash. Could no get the flashes to fire. The flashes I set to non-preflash manual (single lightening bolt). I likewise set the camera to Manual- F/8. What I don't remember is if the speed was greater than the flash sync speed of 1/250, but I don't believe it was. Also tried Aperture priority and Shutter priority- no success. Then I changed it back to Aperture priority and TTL, and then no flash. Before going to work this morning, tried it again on TTL- worked about half the time. Plenty of juice in the camera and flashes. Tonight after work I'll take the camera out and check out some things, making sure I didn't change one of the multitude of settings. I do have about 3k photos taken with the camera (land) to date, so I am pretty familiar with it........ I thought. Do I have this completely wrong? I am used to electronic flash control on a DSLR, so some of this is new to me. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I receive my Nauticam housing Thursday, along with the Port/ring for the 7-14. I'll give it a try with the 12-35.

Phil, Could you help me with what ports will work on the Nauticam housing with the 12-35. Also, what focusing ring- or is it an alteration project? Love the 12-35. Large for MFT, but the resolution is excellent, visibly better than the 12-50. Thanks,

Edward, any results from your testing? Also, are there any other ports to use with the 12-50. Headed on a trip most likely before I can acquire the 12-50 port, and would still like to use the 12-50. Thanks, Terry

For what it is worth, I asked Nauticam about the new Panny 12-35 f2.8 coming out (getting excellent reviews ), and they were non-committal about supporting it. The response: I have not heard of any plans, yet. We'll need to get a hold of one and evaluate it. It doesn't have nearly the magnification of the 12-50mm, so am not sure it will be that popular with u/w photographers. It's also going to be $1300 which will dampen enthusiasm for it too, I would guess. Guess I understand. It does appear to have good close focus. Lensrentals review: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/06/a-weekend-with-the-panasonic-12-35-f2-8 Also, for what it is worth, DxO came out with their modules for the OM-D and a few lenses (hadn't been looking for this- use it for my events and sports photography with my DSLRs). Quickly tried it last night, and it seems to clean up the 12-50 Raw photos fairly well. Hadn't really thought of using DxO on these photos- guess it is just value added.

Thank you, Phil. Finally got my head around the function. Your simple explanation is the best I have seen to date- and the first I understand.

Guess I am being dense, but what advantage does UW mode provide- changed WB? Shoot Raw, so that would not be a great advantage. To date, I have lived without such a Mode- maybe I just don't know what I am missing ;-) At least I know know what the fishy and group of fishes mean.