Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Sagen

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Redmond, Washington

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 20D w/100mm, 60mm, 10-22mm and Tokina 10-17mm
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-125
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms and Light Canon as Mod Light
  1. A couple years ago we did a trip to Galapagos and managed to do 7 dives at Darwin's Arch. I took an Ikelite housed 20D (classic two clip port) and I started the dives with a back roll off the panga. For the wide angle photos, I was using a Tokina 10-17mm behind the 8" Ikelite dome too. My technique was to set the housing (with two Ikelite DS-125s) in my lap, curl my chest around it a bit then roll backwards off the panga. I figure that the cylinder and my back is breaking the water for me and taking much of the shock away from hitting the housing. As for the current, it was strong, but I never felt like it was strong enough to give up the strobes. Coco's was much more challenging from a current perspective. Just keep the arms tucked in for the descent to your perch then unfurl them once you get settled. If you are swimming with whale sharks, I can see the appeal of not having strobes on to help streamline the package. It was a lot of work pushing the housing through the water when circling a 35' shark. However, our encounters with whale sharks were always at depth (the photo included was at 105 fsw) and I don't think my 20D would have been happy with all natural light at that point. I've linked a couple of photos from the Arch that illustrate why strobes can be handy. You can flip through my Flickr gallery too if you want to see what else we encountered. I think much of the time our depth on the Darwin dives was 75ft and below which means it was fairly dim lighting. Good luck with your trip! Sagen
  2. Lovely work Loftus! Reminds me much of my trip to Cocos a couple years ago. It was an amazing trip although quite frustrating from a photographic perspective. Inspiring work from a challenging locale. - Sagen
  3. I've seen the same thing in my own search for a photo printer that can handle some of the blues that comprise some of my Galapagos photos. Sadly I don't have an Epson printer so I've had friends do a few test prints for me. The prints did turn out a bit better than with my Canon printer. None of the online print shops seem to have similar color profiles. Most look worse than my personal Canon printer. Most of my research has been via downloaded color profiles and soft proofing, but my experience has been consistent with my analysis so far. If anyone know of an online printer with good blue coverage let me know.
  4. Always have fun reading this post and figure I should actually contribute this time. This is my favorite shot of the year. At the time this photo was taken, I was kicking as hard as I could to get into position and my mask was filling with sweat. This was our third dive that we had actually spotted "Big Senor", but prior to this pass I didn't have any great shots and I was not going home empty handed. Many thanks to the diver in the foreground for organizing and inviting my wife Jill and I along on a spectacular trip. It's been a struggle to get a decent print, but apparently I think it's worth the time investment to keep on trying. I'll stick with the rules and just post this one (maybe someday I'll post some others from what's been a good year). Taken at Darwin's Arch, Darwin Island, Galapagos. Female whale shark at 105 fsw. Canon 20D, Tokina 10-17mm
  5. My Canon i9900 is an 8 ink printer and it does ok, but the soft-proofing I have done with Epson profiles looks a good bit better. My biggest challenge though is that if I set up things to allow other people to order prints and have that fulfilled by one of the online print shops, I don't think they will be satisfied with the prints. Oh, and I'd like to avoid acquiring a completely different printer. Perhaps that's my only outlet though.
  6. Greetings Wetpixels, I'm having what I suspect is a classic struggle trying to get a few photos processed for printing. The trouble with them is that they are made up of mostly blue tones and they don't hold up well when I soft-proof them using several of the online printers profiles (Mpix and EZPrints for example). The blues in the water tend to run into gamut warning issues. The divers are already pretty low contrast, but on prints they tend to disappear. The soft proofing also shows that the spots at the front of the fish tend to fade and get blurred. I see the same issues with my personal Canon i9900, but Epson printer/paper profiles I have tried out seem to indicate they would do better. For some reason Epson seems to have better coverage in the blue space. Sadly I don't have access to an Epson printer so I thought I would see if anyone in the Wetpixel community might have any ideas. The photo was taken at about 100 ft so the light was a challenge and admittedly I was shooting a bit fast resulting in the lower exposure. Any comments or ideas on processing are appreciated as I have a couple of others from the same pass that I hope to be able to salvage. I can also make the RAW image available if it is helpful. Thanks, Sagen
  7. You know, that's my wife's favorite dive signal as well. I don't think I have managed to get a capture of it though. Trying to keep my photos "Family Friendly" Here are a couple of the woman that drug me into the water: In the warm waters of Grand Cayman: And one in the not-so-warm waters of Seattle:
  8. Has anyone spec'd out what combination of parts are required to house a Canon 100mm 2.8 EF USM lens with a Canon 250D (+4) diopter? I know it's pretty early in the release cycle for the modular port system, but thought I should at least check. The classic focusing flat port for this lens doesn't even allow you to assemble the camera with the lens cap on (I've tried once or twice ) and I think the diopter adds about a centimeter of length to the assembled camera. Thanks for any news and if I figure out what works for me I'll post back. Oh, the housing is for an Ikelite 20D. - Sagen
  9. I am looking to get an Ikelite housed 20D with twin DS-125s a little closer to neutral bouyancy when using the Canon 10-22mm and the 6" dome port. I have a couple of the 8" ULCS bouyancy arms and I was thinking of adding a couple more 8" ones assuming this won't make the housing positive. Does anyone have any experience with rigging this sort of set up? Should I be considering longer arms for WA work? I am currently mostly diving the 100mm macro with a big focusing light and it is always pretty negative. On long dives in the cold Northwest waters it can make ones wrists pretty tired keeping the thing held in position. Any other tips are welcomed. Sagen
  10. I've been diving a housed 20D with the 100mm up in the Northwest for a couple of months and after trying a few different things I went for the over-the-top option and I mount my Light Canon on one of my arms. With two diffusers on the beam it gives a nice wash to the light and makes for a great focus light. However, I haven't seen that this result yields reliable AF so I just muddle through manually focusing my 100mm. I suppose if I messed around with the arm configuration and removed a diffuser or two I might find something that works more reliably. Which leads me to ask, for Macro work do most people use AF and a good modelling light? I'm going to be making my first excursion to Australia and the Barrier reef and I am curious as to what I can get away with. I will have a 10-22mm with me as well but I'm entirely ignorant as to how to set up to use that lens in water with better than 15' visibility Just another green diver in green waters, --Sagen
  11. Given the subject matter was "green", I thought I would post a first image: The picture was taken in the Puget Sound. Sometimes you can be surprised by the images that result from your strobe flooding.
  • Create New...