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Everything posted by onokai

  1. The camera is a Nikon f/5 in a subal housing and its loaded with film with a nikon 105. Not dig so the lens is a true 105. Have diopters and teleconverters but less add ons is more sharp with film so I have never used either underwater in over 1000 photo dives. I'll use what I have to to fill the frame with this critter. I know folks here have shot this critter alot .Hopefully someone has shot it with a film camera.. The 200mm would be great but I spent my wad on a fe dome port and 17-35 nik lens- as well as the subal housing The cost of the 26 nights trip soon on The Sea Safari III has also taken a bite out of the cash pile. Not sure about the (cropped sensor) stuff but will try the diopter and the 2x tele. That should get it. Thanks for the tips. Mark
  2. I'm off to the land of pigmy seahorses. The last time I shot them was with a 105. I want a full frame shot so I'm thinking 105 with (heaven forbid) a diopter. +2 or something else?? Whats the verdict on the best setup for this very small critter?? Mark
  3. This may be a day late and a dollar short but. How about saving up and getting a used really great system.The $1000 limit = junk stuff. Save and look for a good system. One thing I have noticed is these digital cameras come and go like flies. Divers on digital are always selling and moving up. Spend your time researching the right system while saving your $$.. mark
  4. Novus works buy 3 grits work your way down to the super fine. This takes forever so get prepared to keep at it forever. Anotrher product I carry that works is simichrome polish fom germany. The box says its imported by competition chemicals, Iowa falls Iowa. This is an auto parts item and I learned it from a pro.-A two day boat crossing helps. Mark
  5. My guess is 10 to 15 G's. Now the boston whaler that will cost you alot more -throw in a couple compressers and a fleet of tanks. better sell the house. Mark
  6. Its been many a year since a trip on this boat but I have history with her. Suggestions Showers in bow took along time for hot water to arrive. Flash heater would fix that Dedicated camera table. Thats one just for photo nuts like me-no food or drink on them. Rails around for rough weather to keep cameras on tables. Better ventalation in bunk room More storage for photo folks like me Hang the guy who stole her or take diving without a tank your choice Hope some of these help Mark Cortright
  7. (As John states the progress bar goes 1/3 and sits there.....I've gone and made coffee and come back and nada' .....) This has happened alot to me as well. I am on a Brand new Imac- system 10.3 fully suped up with all the bells and whisles. I'm usually in the latest explorer browser but will try safari. not a micro-s--- fan anyway. This freeze up is only on this site and only some threads. Usually the best ones. Its site specific for sure as it has not been a issue in the 6 weeks on this new mac anywhere else. Mark PS not using netscape 4 or any other version
  8. (but is aquatica0 That was it sorry.not subal.. Mark
  9. Quote(but what about the distorsion or other effects of such a +4 diopter (alterations must be greater with a +4 then without a diopter or am I wrong?) I feel you are onto something here how can a relitively cheap diopter make it better. The problem is with the dome design and placement. Alex explains it well above 'here is my take- I just ordered the big dome port DP-FE2 and the 60 ext ring like yours. Heres the deal. This is from 20+ underwater photo years. I do not know much about digital I only do film. We buy the best lens. Yep I have all 2.8 lens and only 2,8. and putting any diopter over them is a degragation in quality. That said subal says a +2 is needed. They want to cover themselves if problems happen- I say pool test it with and without diopters with film then you will know. I am very picky on image quality as I do not want to photoshop- chop -alter my images. If you can not use a diopter you are better off- if you have to use one the lower the # seems to be prefered.Some digital guys will jump all over this but how is a $100 piece of glass sharper than a $1500 lens that is engineered to it's fullest without the add ons.. That said the highest quility diopter is obviously better than a cheapy. I helped develop the exact extension rings needed for the aquatic f/3 housing back in the 80's and have some idea of optics. Subal has great engineers but they fall a little short when it comes to optics. a port designed well with the right rings should need no diopters .That said I'm pool testing mine next week. In a sense digital is alot easier many problems can be fixed later. With film that is not the case . Hope that helps. Mark
  10. I am getting this lens for my subal f5 procase- subal chart says to use this for f4 AF 17-35/2.8 D DP-SWPRO + EXR-P55 DP-SWB + EXR40 AF only 4BN003 4ZN023 +4/72 mm Check it out at subal web site for lens/chart Mark
  11. I think I saw one on E-bay NOW.4/19/05 Mark
  12. I have from subal a split lens +4/ND2. it is for the over under shots 1/2 diopter 1/2 tint The question I have is I am already using a +4 diopter on my wide angle lens. I think i should just stack this on top so there will be 2 diopters which seems wierd. Does this seem right?? I have used a homemade one for years used with my aquatica f3 with ok results. Got this subal one on E-bay and now that I have a subal housing I'd like to try it. Mark
  13. I vote the 105. Used one for 20+ years. Stick to Nikon. Mark
  14. Thanks for that rply>I wonder if it will fit my subal housing ports?? Mark
  15. I spoke to Nikon Tecnical today and the collar does not come off. These was bad news.Mark
  16. I'm shooting a subal with nikon f/5. Was thinking 2X converter for my 60+105 and if I get it a 200 macro. I've read some on pros and cons. Nikon makes a manual one as well as Nikon TC-20E-II Teleconverter for auto focus. What about other brands? I use manual focus the most with these lens. so maybe the tc-201 2x. Any opinions?? Mark
  17. This news was a shock to me as I have tons of memories on the vessel. I even fixed the anchor motor for a free trip in the 80"s. Glen sent me an e-mail the other day and said that they will repair her no matter what... I'm in favor of sending the thief free diving with a 100# wieght belt say 5-10 miles out.Let him have some of the stolen mustard first. Mark
  18. Anyone out there using this lens. 1 to 1 and 19 inches minimum focus distance. This looks like a sweet macro lens. Mark
  19. Alex I have yet to switch to the inferior quality of digital over film so it cuts both ways. as far as a housing for the f6 without a sportfinder whats the point??. My f3's with sportfinders in aquatica's have worked well since 1984 and now f5s in subals . I can say without hesitation that most digital bodies are used less than 5 years before the new kid on the block takes over. The f5 light meters are super. The huge finder makes for viewing from afar easy. All others are a step down.The new generation of DX2 and the like look to be as good as film but the jury is out or at least mine. Yes film has some drawbacks but still has its place. Mark
  20. Just about to spring for2 of these. I have great small non ttl strobes and 3 ike 200 strobes but these seem small enough for great macro or w/a shots with ttl. Any feedback good or bad on these D125s/?? I will be shooting f5 subal housing with 60-105-18-20-24-28 lens. Mark
  21. 2.8 lens are the best optically and are worth it topsde and under. The same qualities that you use them topside matter underwater. They cost more and are worth it. The macro lens are lower dollar anyway. heck the newer nikon 200 1 to 1 is still a F4 dog. It still cost $1300. 2.8 -60 and 105 are almost free compared to the 200. You often pay for what you get. Mark
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