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About Kilili

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Los Gatos, CA

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D2x
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND2
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea misc
  • Accessories
    all that stuff
  1. If you really want to do this right, i suggest the following: Put your whole rig together without floats, but all other hardware fittings. Use a fishing scale and some string and weigh it in a trash can of water. This is how much buoyancy you need. I use Inon floats plus a few Stix, but ULCS is no different. They all publish buoyancy specs for fresh water. You're weighing in fresh water, so everything matches. Build a little spreadsheet with the relevant data to evaluate a solution. If you bring along an extra Stix float or whatever, plus a couple of small fishing weights, you can fine tune on location. I can get my rig, which is an oversized Nikon with lights, fine tuned to where it is neutral in the water below the surface, but at the surface will actually float [barely]. I've been doing this for a while.
  2. Yes, 1000 DX, same location. Backscatter serviced and repaired for me under warranty, no charge, though the light itself I purchased in Singapore.
  3. I think not. I enlarged and tried color correction but saw no indicative blue, not that that's conclusive. Profile from head to back looks wrong though and no Nudipixel submits from Caribbean. That said, I must concede, however, that Marli is far better at nudi id than I.
  4. Flatworm, indeed. Pseudobiceros or Pseudoceros, but not one I recognise. You may find on nudipixel.net
  5. perhaps elongoviridis, but you can post to nudipixel.org
  6. for sure... http://www.nudipixel.net/species/cycloporus_venetus/
  7. Either way. I do both, and have had no problems.
  8. Can send you manual. Too big to attach here.
  9. Investigate? Maybe. Take action against? Unlikely. A while back, as I recall reading, a number of Bali immigration officers were caught stealing money whilst on the job, but kept their jobs and escaped punishment. On the other hand, I've gone thru there every year, 6 years running, with a pair of Nikon D2xs and a Subal housing. Never had a problem. Both were in carry-on. Maybe my luck has run out though.
  10. No problems with any of the camera stuff carry-on, incl. arms, strobes, etc, just no tools. The cable ties are a new one to me. Next, we'll have to check in our shoelaces, and wait until they realise a person can be strangled with a bra.
  11. Depending on where you purchased, they may be able to repair. Last time, I sent mine to Backscatter, though I actually purchased the light in Singapore.. I believe Reef Photo also repair. I sent one to Fisheye in Japan the first time, but the postage is outrageous. They replaced all the internals, but missed a bad o-ring under the switch, and it flooded again. Both times, everything covered by warranty. Good light, but Intovas are more affordable and, I believe, less prone to failure.
  12. Thanks for posting this. It's a path I'll need to follow as well. London? Guess that means the US FDA has not approved yet?
  13. Since I have mounts on the housing already, I use those for main attachment. I also a have down-facing spotter light [for nudis] and shoulder brace attached to the left handle. Handles tend to have more flex, and I consider them less solid for attaching stuff. I mount a high-power focus light [1k lumen] top center on an extension clamp. As my rig is a bit heavy, I consider it key to attach the float arms to achieve neutral buoyancy such that the camera will naturally position itself in a lens-forward position. For arms, I use the Inon oversized "M" Mega float arms. Two give 46 oz of buoyancy. Most people, though, are less extreme. I suggest that the most important point is to achieve properly balanced near neutral bouyancy. How you do so is less important.
  14. I'm thinking of getting one of these for my Subal 105mm VR port for the Nikon 105mm VR, and am looking for experiences on how well this works. I'm assuming DOF must be about zero. Can you compare against other solutions? Also, how does it affect subject distance? Thanks much,
  15. My guess... The batteries were hot because the battery chamber flooded and they shorted out, generating a lot of heat. Gas buildup probably caused the explosion. When you say "blew out the front" is this what you mean? The battery chamber is not isolated from the rest of the strobe, and any water within it generally guarantees destroying the whole thing. I've seen this happen in salt water [without exploding], with its high conductivity. Does seem less probable in fresh water pool, but I've never actually tried it to find out. As a type 4, only Eneloop batteries are to be used. May I assume these were not? Even so, not likely they would be the source of the problem. They only problem I ever encountered with Z240s was from flooding caused by an o-ring swelling, jumping the groove on closure, and me not noticing [no explosion, but certainly pressure buildup] Swelling is normally the result of not using the correct grease. Since yours is new, that seems improbable Go back to where you got it and see if you can get satisfaction.
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