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Cerianthus

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Everything posted by Cerianthus

  1. So is the electric pump the only difference as Milo s site does only list the vs4 Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  2. Glad it worked out. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  3. They did the repair, but they might be able to source a part for you. I found them very helpful. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  4. Aquaphot.co.uk Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  5. Talk to Kevin at Aquaphot in the Uk. He helped me out with Ikelite stuff before and being in the uk easier with the shipping costs. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  6. When you follow these suggestions please remember that saltwater has a different density that will make your rig more buoyant. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  7. OK Thanks. Depends a bit on the cost and the shipping to Europe as well if it is still interesting. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  8. Herb, not interested in the package as a whole, but ive been looking for a dead battery to try and upgrade myself. Gerard Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  9. Both at the same time? It does sound like a bit off salt somewhere, maybe in the camera side plug? Also new cables can still be broken. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  10. Ps depending on how much weight is needed, this tip might be handy. http://uwcamerastuff.com/dyi_dome_port_weights.htm Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  11. That is complete , Well you know. If it is too buoyant you either need a smaller port or weights. That doesn't change if your housing is made of gold or balsa wood. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  12. So weights won't work with nauticam? Physics don't change Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  13. Do you miss ttl now? Both quote a guide nr of 20 in air. I find the spec of 100x100 degrees coverage of the sea and sea hard to believe. What book are you reading? More powerful strobes help in balancing light on bright conditions in wide angle, but for macro they are less needed. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  14. You would probably have to guess it from the subjects. Keep in mind that the diopters work best if your lens is at 1:1 / minimum focus. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  15. And so it should be. I was tempted but when you add shipping and import tax into Europe it was too much. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  16. so is the sentinel 5 a real update, or the V4 in a specific Sea and Sea 'armour'? https://www.sea-sea.com/diving/camera-housing-accessories/leak-sentinel-v5-vacuum-checker.html
  17. I just realised then you would have a fixed connection as well. You can also try a pm (personal message) the link is found in his user profile or name Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  18. O i understand. Wouldn't know. When i resealed diving light cables I would just roll the oring up. There are also cable glands without orings. Check Dev Pein in Germany. Last idea: Can you not pass the cable through and solder the connector? Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  19. Reading the notes on the picture he enlarged the hole to make the plug fit through the part. So some grinding drilling and or filing I guess. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  20. Inon and Nauticam are 45 / straight viewfinders with options for different housings. Friend of mine has an inon on a sea&sea housing. Trick I use to get the viewfinder dry when doing split shots is blow on it. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  21. the compact dome is 6 inch, otherwise they would have the same size. for close focus WA, the compact dome might be more practical, the larger dome makes underovers easier. if you use non fishey lenses, your probably best off with a 8 inch dome. There is also a 3th party dome that is specifically aimed at CFWA (http://www.uwcamerastuff.com/precision_5_dome.htm). The link also includes a comparison in image quality.
  22. Graag gedaan. My German is also not that good, but I think the Traumflieger site is a great resource. Off course it is nice to have the options (although then there are even more options to choose before the dive). the technique with the star button is also possible on my camera and is 'back button focus' in most english articles. You could set this setting to your C mode so it doesnt bother your sister as much.... If the exif is not transferred, then the Tamron electronics might not be entirely the same as the kenko. If the camera is adjusting the exposure then it is just a little annoying, if the camera just acts like it is not there then it might not be usable. If the camera locks up with some combinations you really would like to use, it is probably wise to look for a different one. If I reread your first post, the 1,4 converter does not lock up, that is the 2 converter you already own (and the same type as my 1,4). If we lived closer (my Hasselt is the one near Zwolle, not the one in Belgium) or dived in Zeeland at the same time you were welcome to try mine out, but that wont happen in the next week when you need to make your decision. PS: I dont think Magic Lanter will help with communication issues between lens and teleconverter.
  23. PS; if you read German (or dont mind google translate), an interesting test of converters is found on http://www.traumflieger.de/objektivtest/open_test/telekonverter/overview.php
  24. If you need a teleconverter on all your lenses, would you not be better off shooting with a crop camera ? My Kenko teleplus 1,4 converter has exactly the same type number as the tamron telconverter you are mentioning, so there might be something in it that they are the same. At my camera (canon70D) the displayed f stop does take the converter to account. Also in the exif, the focal length is adapted. I think it is odd that the info is displayed and adjusted in my camera and not in yours. when I use it with my f2.8 USM 100mm macro (not the L lens), I have to take care to avoid using microfocus adjust. for some reason, the camera will lock up (or just not release the shutter) if I use this combination (100mm, teleconverter + microadjust). If it is working, it is reasonably fast. If you would use a teleconverter and a diopter together, you need a good focus light, or be probably better off prefocussing at 1:1 and shooting when the image is sharp in the viewfinder. The canon teleconverters are really only aimed at the longer lenses, and wont work with wide angle and macro lenses (although they would match up nicely with your 70-200mm )
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