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Oskar@RetraUWT

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About Oskar@RetraUWT

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  1. As Chris mentioned the design of the flashtube plays a major role in how light is distributed and the power output. How the flashguns perform in wide angle situations can be seen here: https://www.retra-uwt.com/pages/flashgun-light-comparison In macro situations the differences in light beam spread are same but come out less visible (especially on subjects that are very 3D) because the light beam is compressed onto a small area. If we measure the light beam of the Z-240 coming out of the LSD Ultimate snoot, the uniformity of the beam is considerably less than with the Retra Flash PRO. Although in macro photography this is less of an issue. When comparing both these flashguns for snooting with the LSD Ultimate or a homemade DIY snoot the biggest difference worth noting is the placement of the pilot light. Having a central pilot light being a much better experience when positioning the light.
  2. Roughly speaking somewhere around 6-25% power should be used for those settings depending on the mask you are using, actual distance from the subject, subject color, etc. The LSD Ultimate snoot has a focus distance of about 175mm in water. Moving the snoot farther will give a softer edge with even light distribution but when the snoot is positioned too close it will reduce the light output and a dark spot will form in the center. See image below. The square mask is great for finding the focus distance because the corners can be clearly seen as sharp when the LSD is in focus. Please note that smaller apertures on the mask also reduce the light output. The LSD Ultimate snoot for the Original Retra Flash has the same style bayonet mount and it can be mounted to the new Retra Flash PRO/Prime but optically it is not compatible and makes the effect above even worse. The difference is in the length and the diffuser: the Mounting module for the new Retra Flash is about 43mm long, for the Original Retra Flash it was about 33mm.
  3. After the ready light the flashgun is fired at 100%.
  4. To showcase the capability of the Supercharger we have filmed the recycle time at 100% power. Inserted are used eneloop pro batteries which already had 50+ charge/discharge cycles and were not new by any standard. The firmware on the flashgun is still the alpha version.
  5. We are currently running an alpha firmware version on the flashguns (made only for initial internal tests) which is very conservative. It produces fast recycle times only with really new batteries. Adam was using old but maintained batteries and the result was already not as fast as it could have been. In the next few days we will be able to send an update to Adam and perhaps he can make another video comparison then.
  6. Adam Hanlon has the first (and currently the only) prototype unit of the Supercharger in his hands for testing. There will be content coming up on Wetpixel's website shortly.
  7. Just added "wet weight" information into the tech-spec's here: https://www.retra-uwt.com/pages/retra-flash
  8. That's about right, we need at least the energy in Ws or J to determine the speed of recycling. As correctly assumed the PRO's have much more energy in their capacitors compared to Z-240. Also please note that recycle time specs are not consistent, especially with Inon, as was pointed out in this thread here: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/63538-inon-z-330-ready-light-comes-on-early/ We are on the way to introduce a "Supercharger" for the Retra Flash Prime/PRO that will be an additional battery pack. With it the recycle time for the PRO be halved and the total number of flashes will double. More details will be revealed in the coming weeks when the product is ready for announcement.
  9. Correction of my previous post: Like Pavel said it is possible to set UW Technics TTL converter for Nikon into manual flash mode under water by choosing "Auto FP" in the flash menu of the Nikon camera and shooting in normal ON mode with Retra Flash Prime/PRO. We tested this just now and it works perfectly. We will look into the possibility of adding a timing reference for "smart SL" mode if it won't interfere with the existing program.
  10. Please write to develop@retra-uwt.com regarding firmware for Original Retra Flash. The Smart SL mode is intended for cameras like the Sony RX100 which have no option of cancelling the TTL pre-flash. It might not work with TTL converters, at least on Nikon we have seen that the TTL converter gets confused and constantly changes the number of pre-flashes which makes this system unusable. With pop-up flash we have not had this issue.
  11. We are working on the "Supercharger" for the new Retra Flash and plan to announce it soon. I can't give an exact date right now but it's at the top of our priority list.
  12. We are getting near to the end of the first batch and everyone who hasn't received the tracking details should be getting theirs in the next few days. If you need an exact shipping date please contact my colleague at: sales@retra-uwt.com
  13. Testing the TTL output will be easier on a grey subject with some contrast in the middle for easier focusing. Our box is quite good for this. Below please see screenshot of 5 exposures done with the UW Technics 11031-II board for Nikon set to YS-D1 setting (#3 on the dial of this converter). The images were made with spot metering at ISO100, approximately 0,6 meters distance from flash to subject and the Retra Flash was set to +3 for all exposures. Pavel is currently working with the new Retra Flash and will release more accurate profiles in due course. For the time being we encourage you to try YS-D1 profiles and setting +2 or +3 on the flash.
  14. Hi Tom It seems to me that this cable on the E-Opto converter was twisted a lot since it broke just on the edge. Can you confirm? * Both of your converters should trigger the old and new flashes without any issue even if the connector is pulled out of the sensor cap for a few milimeters. Please note that the old flashes need to be positioned to "SL mode" for triggering with optical sensor. If this is not the case I would say that both fibres are already damaged and should be checked/refreshed. To refresh the fibres they should just be pulled out (not twisted) and cut with a sharp knife to remove the part which is damaged. If you need any help exchanging this cable or further assistance on how to get the cable out please write to: develop@retra-uwt.com. Thank you. Edit 1 - *We tried to recreate this situation and the only way we could do it was to press the cable at a 90º angle at the edge of the housing and twist it about 15-20 times around it's axis. The cable broke and then it took some more twisting and pulling while the cable was still held by the screw to brake the jacket as well. Maybe with colder conditions it can happen sooner. We agree that this is a potential weak point and we will now be looking into it for improvement. For the time being please avoid twisting the cable unnecessarily and especially while it is at an angle. Mount the E-Opto converter first to your flash arm and then plug it into the flash. Movements of the flash while mounted like this should be no problem for the cable. Edit 2 - A little backstory: When we were testing the E-Opto converter and Alex was using the prototype on his trips we already encountered such issues but then sourced a much more robust optical cable which we are using now. Alex tested again to confirm and didn't get problems. We were then considering to make "do not twist" stickers for the cable but after testing the durability we decided to skip on the stickers since it seemed to us that so much twisting will not be possible as to completely brake away the cable. Anyway, I am amused to see that it can still happen and of course we need to look into this some more.
  15. For all sales to end users inside the EU we are required to add VAT (value added tax). With the PRO's this means the price of €899 (excluding tax) comes up to €1.096 or just shy of €200 of tax per flash which is a little more than 20%. All EU customers pay this tax. When sending items outside the EU (exporting) we are not required and do not add any taxes as the destination country will place duties and local taxes on the imported goods based on the rules they have. In my experience these are much lower in the majority of countries around the world and many of them even come out without paying taxes. I think Canada might be the most expensive of the western ones but it still comes out at about 15% which is considerably less than the EU. In the US I think it's much less, as Herb pointed out he paid no more than 5% tax. When you are purchasing products directly from the manufacturer there will be no middleman to take his part in the sale. In our case this means we can keep the product priced lower because we can count on at least some of the sales to come directly. Although the majority of users still prefer buying at a local shop instead of the internet and we always see a total drop of direct sales in an area where a reseller starts to operate.
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