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About aussie_bubbles

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  • Birthday July 5

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Underwater photography and videography

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony a7iii and a7Siii
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon z330
  • Accessories
    12000 Solar Flare Mini Kraken video lights; Weefine video snoot light

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  1. Aquatica said they have a conversion pack you could get to use the a1 in the a7siii housing. Blake said some folk were ordering the a7siii housing, but asking for the a1 stamp on it so when prices come down and they could afford the a1, they could switch. Not sure whether converting is so simple that you could swap out camera bodies between dives.
  2. Hey Caroline, Thanks for getting back to me. So if my understanding is correct, the 1/2 inch port (on top) is for the vacuum system. There is a 16mm port on the bottom, and the 16mm that used to be on the top is now a 1 inch blanking plug that can be used for converting the aS7iii to the a1. Digital diver is sending me an adaptor that looks like it converts this 1 inch port back into a 16mm port. That way I should be able to connect my monitor on the top. Thanks again for the help and responses. Duncan
  3. Starting a thread for Aquatica / Sony a7Siii users. I know that I'll have questions and so might others. As we use gear we discover quirks, hacks and workarounds and it will be useful to find a pool of people using this setup. My a7Siii housing just arrived and I'm baffled by the port options. I've come from the Aquatica / a7iii. The housings schematics in both manuals describe two 16mm port and one 1/2 inch port. My a7Siii housing has has more like a 1inch port and something smaller on the top (maybe a 14mm port?). When I attempted to take off the vacuum system and to thread it on the bottom port so I could use the top one for the monitor I noticed it was a different size and wouldn't fit on the bottom. Then I noticed that the top "16mm" wasn't a 16mm and the monitor wouldn't fit there anyway. Anyone else have this issue? I'm wondering whether I was accidentally shipped a custom build housing. Other observations: I noticed that Aquatica has upgraded their vacuum system. No complaints with that. I prefer the newer style. I was always worried that I'd drop and break the tip on the previous generation pump. If wanting to use a monitor you will have to remove the HDMI door on the a7Siii to get access to the HDMI input. The camera doesn't fit in the housing when the door is open due to Sony's new designs. I found a youtube video on how to do this and you have to then buy silicon plugs to cover the HDMI port for when you use the camera on land and want to protect the HDMI thingy. The door/flap removal is not something you'd do every time you dive because you have to remove/replace 6 tiny screws to do this. (Apparently the new a7vi door isn't removable so watch how housing copy with this if you ever plan to use a monitor with that camera model. I asked Aquatica a few weeks ago and they hadn't noticed this detail, so presumably will be thinking about it before they launch the housing.) ***Side wondering.... I'm curious about the utility of having a port under the housing? It would make the camera lopsided if you threaded anything in there. As mentioned I attempted to put vacuum system there because its better then trying to thread the monitor cable through there and is didn't fit. Given it fits on the top "16mm" but not on the bottom "16mm" was how I discovered that the port are different sizes Anyway... hope this starts a discussion and we can help each other out as we dive with this setup.
  4. Amazing Chris, thank you for that great response. Certainly gave me food for thought and more youtube rabbit holes to go down. Cheers!
  5. Is anyone disheartened by the crop in 4k 60fps video, esp with native Sony lenses? That means a 16-35mm lens is now a 24-52mm if you want to shoot wide angle video and get the benefits of the video upgrades of the A7iv over the A7iii. I tend to shoot 50/50 video and stills, so the A7 has been a great compromise between the R and S series. While I'm moderately excited about the extra res (33mp) and the improved autofocus, that in itself isn't a great reason fork out for the A7vi + the costs of a new housing. I being waiting for years for this upgrade because we all knew 4k 60 10 bit was coming. Shooting in crop mode on land is not going to be an issue for land photographers as your elephants don't have to be three feet in front of you! :) Sounds like this system is going to need a Canon 8-15mm as well if video is important. Any thoughts? Am I being a silly brat?
  6. I'll be finding out soon. Just pre-ordered the A7iv from Aquatica.
  7. Hi all, Apologies if this topic has been covered. I couldn't find anything on relevant while searching so thought I'd ask (hopefully not again). In your experience do all clamps perform more or less the same? I have a drawer full of clamps from number of brands over the years, such as Weefine, Nitescuba, U.N. and some generic cheapies off AliExpress which to date are working fine. I basically keep an eye out for bargains and buy whichever are the cheapest I could find. I've not had any trouble with them and most have lasted years (except for two which required an angle grinder to remove.) I'm not in any great need for new ones, I still have some "bargains" unused in there original packaging. But, I've never bought Aquatica, Nauticam, Isotta or any other more premium brand clamps and was wondering whether I'm missing out on some usability improvements these might offer. Any opinions, strong or otherwise? Cheers, Duncan
  8. Hi, My partner has a Fantasea Line FA6500 housing and she wants to buy a dome port for split shots. A friend makes custom 12 inch domes but she doesn't want to get locked into Fantasea long term. I have an Aquatica setup so she'll probably move in that direction at some point and hence is looking to future-proof the purchase. Does anyone know if there is some way to attach an Aquatica port to a Fantasea housing? I do know that Fantasea has an adaptor for Sea&Sea ports but haven't seen a converter for Aquatica. Cheers, Duncan
  9. Hi I've searched for a thread of this but cannot find much. I've read somewhere that using a +2 diopter on a 16-35mm lens will improve corner sharpness but at the cost of infinity. Does anyone has an opinion on the Schneider Optics B+W +2 Close-up diopter - NL-2 that is available from Backscatter? I know that they recommend it with wide angle lenses. The questions I have are what would the difference between the +2 and +4 make? I shoot with the 16-35mm F4 Sony lens. What would be the min and max focus distance with either of these options? This article has information and a chart but I don't understand what its telling me: https://schneiderkreuznach.com/en/photo-optics/b-w-filters/filtertypes/nd-100-series/close-up Anyone got any helpful guidance or perhaps a link to thread where this has been covered? Cheers, Duncan
  10. Hi, perhaps this is already covered but I couldn't find a blog post about it. The problem I'm trying to solve is regarding the managing of files and storage. I use Lightroom and Photoshop to clean up images. Usually i get back from a dive... throw the files on my laptop and edit a few for social media. When my laptop storage starts to get low, I backup the images on an external hard-drive (actually two mirror copies) and delete the files on my laptop to make room for more. Occasionally when bored or have time, I'll copy an album from storage to .my laptop and edit some of the pics I missed. But then I haven't found a way to backup just new versions of an album and have to overwrite the whole album instead when sending them back to my backup drives. The issue: Photoshop creates a Tiff file in the folder directory of the images. Moving files back and forth means I end up missing things and not backing them up properly, losing Tiff files and the hours spent editing on photoshop. Ideally what I'd like to do it somehow get photoshop to save all tiff files from any album on my local computer in say a folder called "Tiff files." That way Abode knows to look there for the files instead of the album directory. Meaning backing up is easier as I just have to find the newer files (by date) to save to my storage devices. Then I can bring in media from the backup hardrives and edit away without having to resync the whole album. Anyone got any tips or found an easy way to manage this? Cheers, Duncan
  11. I just got my new FA6500 v2 housing which comes with a vacuum safety system (awesome Fantasea!). I was using the original Fantasea FA6500 for about 2.5 years. I wanted to service my old one and also get a vacuum system, but it was cheap enough to just buy another one (and have a backup housing). I rely on the LEG trigger because Sony A6500/A6300 has no manual internal flash control and the recycle time is pants. Using the internal flash to trigger the strobes is ok if you take 30 pics on a dive, but useless for those situations when you're in a feeding frenzy of activity and need to take lots of shots in a short period of time to get a good one. I read that Fantasea are bringing out the FA-3 LED trigger which is compatible with the new housing, so far it is not available yet in Australia. Besides, I was bummed but the idea of having to spend another $300 for an item I already own that is now useless to me. At first it appears to fit, but when testing I noticed that the addition of the vaccum system inside the housing (when closed) is pushing against the LED trigger and moving the camera slightly forwards in the housing, which meant that some of the controls weren't working. Fortunately I had a spare FA-2 trigger that was giving me problems to experiment with. Fantasea had kindly send me a replacement a year or two ago because I think I just got one with a factory defect. I decided to try modifying the LED casing to make it fit. First I removed the electrics and sanded down the back, removing about 1mm of the plastic. This didn't work. So using blue-tak, I worked out where the vacuum valve was pushing against the trigger's casing. (Should have done this step first!) Turns out it is just above the on/off switch on the trigger. So using a carpet knife and sandpaper, I removed some more of the casing. After testing, I covered the hole with electrical tape to provide a barrier to dust and reseal it. Works perfectly now. FYI, you don't have to remove the electrics for this procedure, just remove the top cover.
  12. I never shoot F8 or F9 with it. Minimum is F11, but more often than not I use F13. The ISO I use depends on depth and ambient light. Usually 100 - 800 (at most I'd go 1100 but it gets too noisy). I tend to focus on shallower depths... I seldom find that shooting beyond 20 meters it worth the effort unless there is a bucket list creature.
  13. Thanks everyone, I'll post the results of my attempt soon.
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