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About aussie_bubbles

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  • Birthday July 5

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Underwater photography and videography

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony A7iii
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon z330
  • Accessories
    12000 Solar Flare Mini Kraken video lights; Weefine video snoot light

Recent Profile Visitors

1878 profile views
  1. Hi, My partner has a Fantasea Line FA6500 housing and she wants to buy a dome port for split shots. A friend makes custom 12 inch domes but she doesn't want to get locked into Fantasea long term. I have an Aquatica setup so she'll probably move in that direction at some point and hence is looking to future-proof the purchase. Does anyone know if there is some way to attach an Aquatica port to a Fantasea housing? I do know that Fantasea has an adaptor for Sea&Sea ports but haven't seen a converter for Aquatica. Cheers, Duncan
  2. Hi I've searched for a thread of this but cannot find much. I've read somewhere that using a +2 diopter on a 16-35mm lens will improve corner sharpness but at the cost of infinity. Does anyone has an opinion on the Schneider Optics B+W +2 Close-up diopter - NL-2 that is available from Backscatter? I know that they recommend it with wide angle lenses. The questions I have are what would the difference between the +2 and +4 make? I shoot with the 16-35mm F4 Sony lens. What would be the min and max focus distance with either of these options? This article has information and a chart but I don't understand what its telling me: https://schneiderkreuznach.com/en/photo-optics/b-w-filters/filtertypes/nd-100-series/close-up Anyone got any helpful guidance or perhaps a link to thread where this has been covered? Cheers, Duncan
  3. Hi, perhaps this is already covered but I couldn't find a blog post about it. The problem I'm trying to solve is regarding the managing of files and storage. I use Lightroom and Photoshop to clean up images. Usually i get back from a dive... throw the files on my laptop and edit a few for social media. When my laptop storage starts to get low, I backup the images on an external hard-drive (actually two mirror copies) and delete the files on my laptop to make room for more. Occasionally when bored or have time, I'll copy an album from storage to .my laptop and edit some of the pics I missed. But then I haven't found a way to backup just new versions of an album and have to overwrite the whole album instead when sending them back to my backup drives. The issue: Photoshop creates a Tiff file in the folder directory of the images. Moving files back and forth means I end up missing things and not backing them up properly, losing Tiff files and the hours spent editing on photoshop. Ideally what I'd like to do it somehow get photoshop to save all tiff files from any album on my local computer in say a folder called "Tiff files." That way Abode knows to look there for the files instead of the album directory. Meaning backing up is easier as I just have to find the newer files (by date) to save to my storage devices. Then I can bring in media from the backup hardrives and edit away without having to resync the whole album. Anyone got any tips or found an easy way to manage this? Cheers, Duncan
  4. I just got my new FA6500 v2 housing which comes with a vacuum safety system (awesome Fantasea!). I was using the original Fantasea FA6500 for about 2.5 years. I wanted to service my old one and also get a vacuum system, but it was cheap enough to just buy another one (and have a backup housing). I rely on the LEG trigger because Sony A6500/A6300 has no manual internal flash control and the recycle time is pants. Using the internal flash to trigger the strobes is ok if you take 30 pics on a dive, but useless for those situations when you're in a feeding frenzy of activity and need to take lots of shots in a short period of time to get a good one. I read that Fantasea are bringing out the FA-3 LED trigger which is compatible with the new housing, so far it is not available yet in Australia. Besides, I was bummed but the idea of having to spend another $300 for an item I already own that is now useless to me. At first it appears to fit, but when testing I noticed that the addition of the vaccum system inside the housing (when closed) is pushing against the LED trigger and moving the camera slightly forwards in the housing, which meant that some of the controls weren't working. Fortunately I had a spare FA-2 trigger that was giving me problems to experiment with. Fantasea had kindly send me a replacement a year or two ago because I think I just got one with a factory defect. I decided to try modifying the LED casing to make it fit. First I removed the electrics and sanded down the back, removing about 1mm of the plastic. This didn't work. So using blue-tak, I worked out where the vacuum valve was pushing against the trigger's casing. (Should have done this step first!) Turns out it is just above the on/off switch on the trigger. So using a carpet knife and sandpaper, I removed some more of the casing. After testing, I covered the hole with electrical tape to provide a barrier to dust and reseal it. Works perfectly now. FYI, you don't have to remove the electrics for this procedure, just remove the top cover.
  5. I never shoot F8 or F9 with it. Minimum is F11, but more often than not I use F13. The ISO I use depends on depth and ambient light. Usually 100 - 800 (at most I'd go 1100 but it gets too noisy). I tend to focus on shallower depths... I seldom find that shooting beyond 20 meters it worth the effort unless there is a bucket list creature.
  6. Thanks everyone, I'll post the results of my attempt soon.
  7. ooh wow, those are some strange looking fish. Thanks for the tips.
  8. I use a fantasea housing. I've had it for two years and no dramas.
  9. I use the A6300, fantasea housing with the kit 16-50mm lens and the UWL-09F wet wide lens. I have been shooting with it for about 2 years now. It is great and convenient for obvs reasons - that you can switch between macro and wide angle on the same dive. I have the QRS system so switching between a macro diopter and the wide angle is super easy. With fantasea's wet wide angle it changes the minimum focal length and you can pretty much get as close as you like. Something that touches the lens will be in focus. The only draw back is the corners aren't super sharp. You have to shoot at F13 or thereabouts to mitigate it which is fine good light, but not great at depth, unless you like darker backgrounds. It can flare a bit in the sun, but you can see this on the LCD screen, so just move or angle the camera around if it bothers you too much. Short answer... I love it, but... I'm going to buy the 10-18mm lens and dome port soon because I want sharper images without having to stop the aperture down. Here are examples of images.... anything wide angle in the last two years will be shot with the UWL-09F (and even some of the close up stuff). https://www.instagram.com/aussie_bubbles/
  10. I'm currently interested in making a DIY 3-leg tripod for videography. If anyone has any smart ideas I'd love to hear about them.
  11. I'm about to try this, but read somewhere that cutting fibre optic cables can be tricky and you could crush the glass - causing problems. What did you use to cut the cable?
  12. Are you using a fantasea housing? If so what port are you using for a 90mm macro lens?
  13. Hi, I couldn't find a conversation about this so please point me in the right direction if there is one so that I don't duplicate threads. I use a YS-110 and YS-110a strobe. I was wondering if anyone had any info on batteries to use. I have 2600 mAh for one and 2000 mAh for the second. Does anyone know how many discharges I should get from the batteries when the strobe if fired when used on full power mode? The reason I'm asking is because I have a dive trip coming up where I'd be doing multiple days a day and I'm trying to work out how many spare batteries and chargers to bring along with me. I usually only do one dive a day when at home in Sydney..... so haven't ever run out of power.
  14. Works fine in the housing so far. I used AF-A and occasionally switched to manually select the focal area. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1249839/Fantasea-Line-Fa6500.html?page=39#manual Fantasea's manual suggests the other compatible ports could be used on the A6500 housing. Does anyone know where I can find information on which other brand's ports would fit this housing?
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