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About mackman

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    Boston, MA

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand

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  1. Airport Accelerator was able to fit a housing, 230 dome, 105 macro port, 3 strobes, and 20, 35, and 70 extension tubes (fits over the macro port). Handles come off to fit. Arms and clamps go in the checked bag. All the extra camera bits, focus lights, and super macro wet lenses go in a lens smuggler. Fiber sync cables went in my regulator bag in my checked bag. Weighs a ton, I’ve been thinking whether I should get some sort of folding wheel thing for the backpack. But if it’s on my back when I check in for the flight I’ve never had them weigh it. The roller bags weigh quite a bit more when empty.
  2. The night sea excitation filter for the z330 should be available soon. They’re very nice and snap into the bayonet mount like the diffusers do. I don’t think you’ll find anything else for the z330 that manages to block all of the unfiltered light given the dome port and 3D printing on your own would be challenging.
  3. I started at the same time but I think it interfered with some of my enjoyment early on. 100 dives of experience and it’s much easier to take pictures now :-)
  4. I spent a lot of time trying to figure this one out myself. I bought a fish scale and measured the buoyancy of my most common port, light, and macro converters combinations. I finally decided the stix floats on the arms and on the macro ports give me way more adaptability than I could get with float arms. Plus I can throw a bunch of them in a checked suitcase without worrying about them going missing.
  5. Shorter focal length but longer lens and higher magnification. Not sure exactly what you’re trying to go for. https://www.nauticam.com/products/n120-port-adaptor-for-laowa-24mm-f-14-2x-macro-probe-1
  6. How much of a difference is there in image quality when shooting a fisheye in a 140mm vs 230mm dome?
  7. I highly recommend “release button to use dial” mode. https://onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com/d850/en/18_menu_guide_05_f06.html
  8. With the APS-C you’re cropping out the blurry edges. Try stopping down to f8, f11, or even f16 if you have enough light. The correction lens is about $200 if I remember correctly and is said to give a 2 stop improvement. So if your corners look OK at f11 then with the lens they should look ok at f5.6 and you can shoot at lower ISO.
  9. It sounds like you are describing image blur around the edges/corners not darkening (vignetting). That’s normal for underwater wide angle and can be improved by stopping down and/or possibly with the Sea & Sea Internal Correction Lens (not sure for that particular lens/dome combo).
  10. Has anyone considered using the vacuum valve with a pump instead of a vacuum to keep the housing under slight positive pressure after it’s been removed from the rinse tank to push water out from the o-rings? My fear is you risk dislodging an o-ring.
  11. I haven’t used it but you can buy a mount for it: https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/Dyron-Adapter-M77-Subal-Macro-Port
  12. The answer depends on the port. That lens with the TC is the very last entry on the Nikon N120 port chart available here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WLpR5VvdZ25yF_XXZqc-xKfneM4ctu2_/view
  13. Just rubbed with a microfiber drying towel I use to dry my car. One of the ones with a grid texture on it. Took a bit of effort but only about a minute for each piece of glass. Wiped it clean with a towel to inspect. Then when I was done ran it under the faucet to remove any remaining cleaner.
  14. Necro’ing an old post but wanted to report success using Mothers Water Spot Remover for Glass on two macro ports and my SMC1.
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