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mackman

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About mackman

  • Rank
    Clownfish

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    joyoflivingphoto.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boston, MA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Has anyone considered using the vacuum valve with a pump instead of a vacuum to keep the housing under slight positive pressure after it’s been removed from the rinse tank to push water out from the o-rings? My fear is you risk dislodging an o-ring.
  2. I haven’t used it but you can buy a mount for it: https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/Dyron-Adapter-M77-Subal-Macro-Port
  3. The answer depends on the port. That lens with the TC is the very last entry on the Nikon N120 port chart available here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WLpR5VvdZ25yF_XXZqc-xKfneM4ctu2_/view
  4. Just rubbed with a microfiber drying towel I use to dry my car. One of the ones with a grid texture on it. Took a bit of effort but only about a minute for each piece of glass. Wiped it clean with a towel to inspect. Then when I was done ran it under the faucet to remove any remaining cleaner.
  5. Necro’ing an old post but wanted to report success using Mothers Water Spot Remover for Glass on two macro ports and my SMC1.
  6. No worries. I’m probably going to throw a few wide angle options in my trunk for my next dive trip and I’ll post anything I learn about what works best.
  7. Thats a really good idea, thank you. I bet I can even put a thicker ring on after insertion that would need to be removed the same way! Thanks again!
  8. So the older Nauticam optical cables screwed into the socket on my housing and strobe and stayed put. Their new "universal" ones have a brand-specific screw down terminal that makes both the housing and the strobe accept the same kind of push-in cable (hence the "universal"). Please see the image below. The cable ends are held in place with a small o-ring around the connector but they end up popping out occasionally. Routing the cable around the clamps helps, but now instead of popping out I've found them sorta half-in and I worry more about them being unreliable because it isn't as obvious something is wrong when they pop-out entirely. So I'm trying to figure out if anyone has advice on how to keep the push-in cable from popping out of the screw terminals. I suppose I could just glue it in but then they won't rotate in the socket like they're supposed to and they are right angle connectors so they might end up pointing in a weird direction. Honestly I just wish I could buy the old version of the cables again.
  9. I feel like the new nauticam universal cables are a downgraded from the old housing/strobe specific cables because I manage to pull the clippy part out from the screwy part. Anyone have ideas on how to keep them seated or know where I can buy the older style cables for Inon strobes?
  10. Thanks all for the replies. Thats what I was afraid of :-) Strobes it is.
  11. I'm headed to the St. Lawrence River to visit some of the wrecks and was thinking of using filters instead of strobes but the wrecks are mostly around 100' which exceeds the recommended depth for the green water magic filters I was looking at. Anyone know if there's enough light at that depth for filters or am I going to need to stick to strobes?
  12. horvendile, what did you decide and how were the results? I'm headed to the St. Lawrence River to visit some wrecks (exterior only) and am currently trying to figure out if it's worth buying the internal correction lens or not. Recently I've been using the WACP or a fisheye but if those are too wide then I might end up wanting to use my older 16-35 behind an 8.5" dome. In that case I'm wondering if it's worth picking up the Internal Correction Lens. But I'm not sure how wide is too wide for the wrecks I'm visiting and maybe shooting the WACP in DX mode would still look better than the 16-35 with the correction lens.
  13. I tried using my WACP with the 28-70 zoomed in for some shark photos but post-trip image review showed softness outside the center of the frame. I guess I need to stop down a bunch when using the WACP at 70mm even though its sharp on the edges wide open at 28mm. I dont remember the same issue with the 16-35 on an 8.5 dome but maybe I wasnt paying as much attention or was already stopped down a bunch even at the wide end. Anyone have any advice for how much to stop it down or how much of the 28-70 range is supposed to be usable on the WACP?
  14. Anybody know what's out there or have recommendations?
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