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About mackman

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    Boston, MA

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand

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  1. Shorter focal length but longer lens and higher magnification. Not sure exactly what you’re trying to go for. https://www.nauticam.com/products/n120-port-adaptor-for-laowa-24mm-f-14-2x-macro-probe-1
  2. How much of a difference is there in image quality when shooting a fisheye in a 140mm vs 230mm dome?
  3. I highly recommend “release button to use dial” mode. https://onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com/d850/en/18_menu_guide_05_f06.html
  4. With the APS-C you’re cropping out the blurry edges. Try stopping down to f8, f11, or even f16 if you have enough light. The correction lens is about $200 if I remember correctly and is said to give a 2 stop improvement. So if your corners look OK at f11 then with the lens they should look ok at f5.6 and you can shoot at lower ISO.
  5. It sounds like you are describing image blur around the edges/corners not darkening (vignetting). That’s normal for underwater wide angle and can be improved by stopping down and/or possibly with the Sea & Sea Internal Correction Lens (not sure for that particular lens/dome combo).
  6. Has anyone considered using the vacuum valve with a pump instead of a vacuum to keep the housing under slight positive pressure after it’s been removed from the rinse tank to push water out from the o-rings? My fear is you risk dislodging an o-ring.
  7. I haven’t used it but you can buy a mount for it: https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/Dyron-Adapter-M77-Subal-Macro-Port
  8. The answer depends on the port. That lens with the TC is the very last entry on the Nikon N120 port chart available here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WLpR5VvdZ25yF_XXZqc-xKfneM4ctu2_/view
  9. Just rubbed with a microfiber drying towel I use to dry my car. One of the ones with a grid texture on it. Took a bit of effort but only about a minute for each piece of glass. Wiped it clean with a towel to inspect. Then when I was done ran it under the faucet to remove any remaining cleaner.
  10. Necro’ing an old post but wanted to report success using Mothers Water Spot Remover for Glass on two macro ports and my SMC1.
  11. No worries. I’m probably going to throw a few wide angle options in my trunk for my next dive trip and I’ll post anything I learn about what works best.
  12. Thats a really good idea, thank you. I bet I can even put a thicker ring on after insertion that would need to be removed the same way! Thanks again!
  13. So the older Nauticam optical cables screwed into the socket on my housing and strobe and stayed put. Their new "universal" ones have a brand-specific screw down terminal that makes both the housing and the strobe accept the same kind of push-in cable (hence the "universal"). Please see the image below. The cable ends are held in place with a small o-ring around the connector but they end up popping out occasionally. Routing the cable around the clamps helps, but now instead of popping out I've found them sorta half-in and I worry more about them being unreliable because it isn't as obvious something is wrong when they pop-out entirely. So I'm trying to figure out if anyone has advice on how to keep the push-in cable from popping out of the screw terminals. I suppose I could just glue it in but then they won't rotate in the socket like they're supposed to and they are right angle connectors so they might end up pointing in a weird direction. Honestly I just wish I could buy the old version of the cables again.
  14. I feel like the new nauticam universal cables are a downgraded from the old housing/strobe specific cables because I manage to pull the clippy part out from the screwy part. Anyone have ideas on how to keep them seated or know where I can buy the older style cables for Inon strobes?
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