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rjsimp

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About rjsimp

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    Clownfish
  1. SOLD - Thank you! Its now off to a good new home and a dive trip soon where it should be!
  2. Not from this forum, and only tire kickers on another. Kind of surprised given the quality of the photos you get from this system and the ease of use.
  3. No interest in the whole system? If you are interested in any of the pieces, PM me with an offer before I send all this out to the auction site.
  4. I have not been able to go on any dive trips for the last few years and I have decided to sell my underwater camera gear. This is a complete system with everything you need to take fantastic underwater pictures with full TTL using dual YS-110 stobes. The system looks and functions like new. It has only been used on 3 dive trips and was well taken care of and maintained. Here is a list of what is included in this setup: •Nikon D200 Body - (2 of them, one for backup) - Very low actuator count and still like new with batteries. •Battery Grip - This is for land use only, but very useful to have. •Subal ND20 Housing with factory installed Magnified Viewfinder. Wired for TTL signals to be used with the Sea & Sea TTL Converter. •Macro port with Focus Ring •60mm Nikon Macro 2.8 lens •Sea & Sea TTL Converter •Sea & Sea YS-110 (2 of them for better coverage) •Sea & Sea Sync Cables •ULCS 12" Buoyancy Arm (4 of them gives two for each side and maximum flexibility) •ULCS Connectors (6) When I purchased this sytem new, it was well over $10,000 for everything. I am looking for best offers. I would like to keep it as a set unless somone wants to buy only the housing first, then I can sell the other items separately. I also have a Subal glass dome, 12-24mm Nikon lens, 10mm Nikon Lens, extension, and a Subal Diopter for additional Macro Lens magnification available separately. PM me with your best offer and/or questions. Links to closeups: Overview Housing Top Housing Back Housing Front TTL Converter Stobes D200 Cameras
  5. Maybe you could "enlighten" us on the use of the Raw converter by writing something up as an example on the steps you used. I would be interested as I have used the magic filters, but also have some shots that I have not had the best of luck with on fixing where I didn't have stobes or filters. I would like to fix them to something more reasonable and have done some things/techniques but always looking for something that may be better.
  6. Keep in mind, that the TTL will ONLY work on the G9 and G10 if you are not in the manual settings mode. So, even via fiber optic sync, your strobes will have to be set manually. Now, if you shoot in one of the automatic modes, then you can get TTL to work but you give up a lot of control IMO. I was looking at these cameras as an option for my Daughter, until I found this out.
  7. Very nice shots Tim. I am not sure why people keep saying 24" arms. I said I have two 12" segments to give me up to the max of 24" away from the camera. It gives me options is what it does. I can go right next to the camera to above, below, and to the side. I can go as close to the camera as touching the camera (not something I would do normally) to the 24" of extension and anywhere in between. Flexibility to provide me options is what I am after. As far as ability to get into tight areas, well, I don't do wrecks really so I couldn't speak to that.. but I have never had a problem getting my camera/strobes where I want to. The arms also make a very good carry method when crossed over so it can be handed down and take back up for entry/exit. Anyhow.. I just wanted to clarify, I am in NO WAY saying all my wide angles are always at 24" out from the camera. I position them where they are needed and with the arms I use, I have a LOT of options that I would otherwise not have with a different set up.. After all, shooting underwater is all about options in order to get the best shot.
  8. No they are still on ebay.. I just checked and they are there and available still.
  9. "Macho myth" Okay.. First, it is 2 - 12" arms on both sides giving you up to 24" of extension on each side.. Second, nothing mythical about it, it works, it was is the same set up that Cathy Church uses and has taught to me. I have looked at your pictures and I'll stick with putting the strobes further out and angling them in. To each their own, but I don't have ANY problems with backscatter and I am able to get much better dramatic lighting that gives more shadows and texture to the picture.
  10. I have the MacroMate and I really like it on my subal.. I don't find it hard to use at all and would recommend it. I have used it now off and on for a couple of years.
  11. Even if the port rotated under water, it wouldn't come off or leak because of the presure. Now obviously once you come up it could be an issue. If you are really worried, put an index mark on the port that is always at the top center so you can see easily if it has rotated. It is the o-ring that makes it water tight so it doesn't have to be perfectly tight to be safe.
  12. The testing process is documented, yes. But the the numbers being calculated are suspect. I have read a description of the process and it listed some caveats.. It seems to me that using these results to determine which camera to buy is not the smartest thing considering all the variables and even human error and the fact the tests were designed for lens testing primarily. But without full disclosure and truely normalized results, I wouldn't be using the results to make my purchases.
  13. I don't know.. I tried to find more information about how they actually calculate these numbers, but the results seem somewhat suspect. Basically if I was to believe this, I should toss the D300 in favor of the D60.. The D90 being better than the D300 also? Not sure that is believable but I would buy the D90 being close to the D300. I just can't trust numbers like these that contridict real photo tests..
  14. Okay, but by your method, the spill over light from the strobe will expose parts of the background in macro photography at slower shutter speeds and at higher shutter speeds, whereas, if you use the aperture to control the background, you can still keep your shutter speed at 1/100 or 1/250 or whatever and end up with a blacked out background on macro if you choose because it will limit the light entering the camera and the "dimmer" lit areas behind your subject will be blacked out. I agree there are two things controlling exposure here and the shutter will darken the background also. I mainly have an issue with the statement that a faster shutter speed does not increase the ability to get a sharper image when doing macro based on movement. I have seen it in many pictures taken of the same subject and there is a difference. Wide angle is not an issue since minor movements are not as noticeable as they are when you are taking a picture of something the size of a pencil eraser. I also have an issue where William said.. "Use a smaller aperture to let more light in".. If he meant "smaller aperture NUMBER which relates to a larger aperture.." well then that would be better and it would be confusing to readers. I am not debating anyone's own personal technique to get the results they want since there are several ways to an end. I was mainly debating the two assertions of a smaller apterture letting more light in and that shutter speed has no effect on if a subject is blury or not in flash photography.
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