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About sea_ledford

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  • Location
    Galveston, TX

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon d7000
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon z-240
  • Accessories
    yes please
  1. I am headed to a very limited access cave (i.e. I likely won't ever be going back) in a few weeks and will be doing my first cave photography (maybe). I haven't been there before, there are very few images of the cave to see what I'm in for, photography is not the primary objective and I'll have 7 dives at the max, and more likely only 3, that I'll be able to shoot. So odds stacked against me from the get go, I'm looking for some advise. I have a Nikon d7000 with 2 z240's on board (triggered via fiber optic), one ikelite DS125 with EV controller and two Nikonos 105's. I've figured out that I can trip the 105's (no pre-flash option) if I set the camera internal flash to manual, and if I set the EV controller correctly, it will fire the DS125 properly with out a pre-flash as well. Super excited about all that. However, while testing the z240's with the camera in manual flash mode, I'm not getting any variation in power from changing the settings on the back of the strobe; full, manual at 1, manual at 11, auto, sttl.. all the same output. And I just checked, camera exposure is in manual as well. I also tried changing the flash setting in camera from full to 1/128th, no change. It all works fine if the camera is set to TTL. Anybody with ideas on the manual settings? I also have two Sola video2000's that I could use rather than the NIkonos strobes if they put out enough light. I could put the camera back in TTL and solve my Inon problem that way. And come to think of it, will TTL even work in a cave? I'll probably end up setting the camera and adjusting the strobes manually anyway. Thanks! Chris
  2. I did figure out that I can pull the lever out, rotate it all the way forward and then push it back in and it will nudge the selector all the way to AF. I can do it pretty easily with no lens on the camera and I can see what I am doing, but once the lens is on, it's a bit more difficult. I also removed the left handle and I can get it to AF, so maybe dremiling out a little piece of the arm would work. It seems I shouldn't have to do that though, it's not like I'm trying to make a housing fit an incorrect camera.
  3. So I seem to be having some issues with my new AD7000 housing. I just got it back from Backscatter to adjust the mode selector dial (it wasn't engaging the camera's dial very well). That seems to be fixed, but now the focus mode selector doesn't work. It will switch it most of the way from M to AF, but the housing arm blocks it from getting all the way to AF. I can just put it in the housing on AF and use it that way but I was planning on switching it to M for video, so it's kind of important. I also can't open the on camera flash via the button on the housing when it is in the housing... there just seems to be too much stuff up top to let it open. I can open the flash before sliding the camera in, and weasel it in there and it works fine, so that is a minor annoyance at worst. I do have the hybrid housing, so all the flash electronics are up there. The M/AF selector was working before I shipped it to Backscatter, so I'm wondering if I'm putting the camera in incorrectly so things aren't lining up properly. It almost seems like the camera is a 1/4 mm too far back or something. Is there a fix for this that won't involve another month long trip to Monterey? I have a trip next week, and I would like to use the thing at some point... Thanks! Chris
  4. I'm trying to help out a student with a new 5d mkII, S&S housing and dual ys110alpha strobes (Y-synch cord). We can't figure out how to get the strobes to fire. I think it is a camera setting issue, but I'm not a canon guy, so I'm pretty clueless. The only setting I can find in the menu related to external lights is the "external speedlite control" and I can't get to any of the sub menus because it say something to the nature of "Cannot access menu because you don't have a speedlite attached or it isn't on" even when the hot shoe is plugged in. We tried different camera settings (manual, aperture priority, etc), and with the strobes on slave and normal, reconnected everything... nothin'. Is there some sort of enable hot shoe option buried in a menu or something? Thanks! Chris
  5. This morning I turned on my ds125 and it started to make the typical whine as it powered up but then stopped abruptly about half way through it's charge cycle. Then it wouldn't flash. The modeling light turns on. The modeling light turns on and it tells me I have a full chage when I put it to test, and when I try to fire it, the indicator light on the side turns green for a second before going back to red. But it dosen't flash. And the ready light won't come on either. The kicker is this is the SECOND time this has happened to the strobe within six months! Last time I sent it back and it had a bad/burnt oscillator board (whatever that is). Anyone else had this problem? Chris
  6. "silogobius mainlandi, endemic to Hawaii" mainlandi? That's kind of a funny species name for an endemic hawaiian fish...
  7. Do you have any idea where the light sensor is in the camera? I'm wondering if I can trick it into shutting down early by using a fiber optic cable inside the housing somehow. Chris
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