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Little micro strobe batch!

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Hi Yako, You can refer to this post "Diy Led underwater flash strobe" in another section, there is circuit diagram. I twisted it by referring to some strobe circuit I found on Internet. Just a few components as you can see from the picture, plus a MOSFET.

 

Enjoy your DIY project.

 

Cheers!

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Hi Eddcar.

Many thanks for your replies. More food for thought! I'll post more if I get anywhere!

Thanks. Pete

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Eddcar

Just thought you might be interested in progress.

 

I was given 2 strobe triggers - one of Hedwig's creations, and another from Glowdive. The Glowdive one used the circuit that you pointed out, including the MOSFET, powered by a small 12v battery and with 4 LEDs (I think in series). I chose to use the Glowdive one, as my Hugyfot housing uses the hot shoe fitting to hold the pressure check system lights. I rebuilt the whole thing, and it now has several modules connected by computer plugs. The main circuit board and the battery holders sit at each end of the camera tray; the hot shoe wiring now has a break plug in it to connect it to the new circuit. Most importantly the LEDs are mounted on a plate positioned directy underneath the fibre optic bulkhead fitting.

 

It all now works a treat, and I'm about to build a neater version. If you're interested, I put some pictures up.

 

Pete

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Hi Pete, I am definitely interested! I have an Olympus e-PL5, with a theoretical sync speed of ~1/400, which gets wasted with the built in flash. Now I am looking for a really fast-response solution.

 

Do you know the response time of your version? I haven't seen the Glowdive unit on their website, is it still on the market?

Edited by tamas970

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Hi tamas970.

 

I think I recall reading that the MOSFET has a response time of about 1/1000 sec, and the LED responds quickly too. My D90 will only sync properly at 1/200, though at 1/400 it will still pick up the flash fine....you just see the shutter cutting off part of the image as well!

 

I never found any reference to the Glowdive unit on the web either. Judging by the quality of manufacture, I suspect it was a prototype unit send out for trial to a supplier. The guy who gave (loaned?) the unit to me did so because he could not make it work....though I suspect that may have had something to do with the alignment of the LEDs. So, I doubt if Glowdive ever put it into production. This mirrors Triggerfish's experience - Hedwig said many people could not make his unit work so he stopped making them. However, I am told by someone in the know that Nauticam are now making a flash trigger (though I can't find it on their website yet.) Best place to start with that would be UW Visions in the UK.

 

If you are still interested, I can certainly make you one. We would need to work out how to make the LEDs fire straight into the F/O bulkhead connector, so I'd need to know the relative positions of the camera hot shoe and the bulkhead connector itself. Which housing are you using?

 

Regards. Pete

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Hi Pete,

 

I have a 10bar housing for E-PL5:

Space for the microflash: max 15mm height, max 35x35mm with& length.

Position of the window: ~35mm above the hotshoe level (yes, you cannot fit the

camera with open flash)

post-38905-0-07305900-1371714064_thumb.jpg

 

The camera itself gives a very nice sync (<5% banding loss at 1/400), I would like to keep that. Maybe a fast switching Mosfet would be a good idea.

 

Edited by tamas970

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The first batch is sold and .... i am not gone make a new batch.

Because there are housing brands and types where they don't fit in and it is not easy to aim the leds into the fibers.

Also the Sea&Sea strobes sensor is not always in the middle off the fiber ... resulting in not enough light for the strobe to trigger.

 

greets, Hedwig.

 

I am making them again but only on demand ... and you know the existing problems that stay the same :(

 

There is no way with the current batterys to pull up the power of the leds. I have tested a 1W led with a large battery ...and this works fine with all strobes.

But there is no place to use larger batterys. :((

greetings, Hedwig.

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Hedwig, can you maybe supply a longer power cable with the large battery so users can wire the battery somewhere else on the housing?

 

S.

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I am making them again but only on demand ... and you know the existing problems that stay the same :(

 

There is no way with the current batterys to pull up the power of the leds. I have tested a 1W led with a large battery ...and this works fine with all strobes.

But there is no place to use larger batterys. :((

greetings, Hedwig.

 

Ouch, I just bought almost all bits and pieces for a project, I am going with a 1W IR LED. If you've had posted an hour earlier... Have you changed the other components? (MOSFET, resistors) Which battery did you choose? I might fit 2 CR2's in my 10bar housing...

 

Do you mind sharing the layout of your version?

Edited by tamas970

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Tamas970

 

Sorry for the delay in replying - been away for a few days.

 

The example of Hedwig's unit that I have seen was nice - much more sophisticated than the MOSFET version. I did make it work by firing the LED directly into the fibre optic bulkhead connector, but did not fit it to the camera as it mounts on the hot shoe....and mine is already used by the camera pressure lead detector.

 

The MOSFET circuit I am using has 2 x 12V LR23 batteries in parallel, with the 4 high power LEDs mounted in series. Hedwig uses 2 CR button cells of 3V each, and his LEDs appear to be in parallel.

 

Herewith pictures of my version. One shows the batteries and circuitry mounted under the camera tray, the other shows the hot shoe connector with the wiring break for the flash, and you can see the 4 LEDs mounted on a board directly under the bulkhead connector. Units are connected with computer plugs. Wiring is rather untidy - I will make another one when I have a minute and tidy things up.

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 



Ah, the photos failed. I will try again.

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Thanks for sharing the pics, Pete!

 

What is the benefit of Hedvig's design vs the simple MOSFET version?

(Is there a circuit published somewhere? single LED would be fine for me...)

Only thing I can think of if the LED may not shut off in time and force the

strobes to keep firing...

 

First I'll try replicating rtrski's design with an IR LED and some beefier batteries.

 

Tamas970

 

Sorry for the delay in replying - been away for a few days.

 

The example of Hedwig's unit that I have seen was nice - much more sophisticated than the MOSFET version. I did make it work by firing the LED directly into the fibre optic bulkhead connector, but did not fit it to the camera as it mounts on the hot shoe....and mine is already used by the camera pressure lead detector.

 

The MOSFET circuit I am using has 2 x 12V LR23 batteries in parallel, with the 4 high power LEDs mounted in series. Hedwig uses 2 CR button cells of 3V each, and his LEDs appear to be in parallel.

 

Herewith pictures of my version. One shows the batteries and circuitry mounted under the camera tray, the other shows the hot shoe connector with the wiring break for the flash, and you can see the 4 LEDs mounted on a board directly under the bulkhead connector. Units are connected with computer plugs. Wiring is rather untidy - I will make another one when I have a minute and tidy things up.

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 



Ah, the photos failed. I will try again.

Edited by tamas970

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Tamas970

 

You probably ought to ask Hedwig about the features of his design. As far as I can see, the flash comes when the switch (ie camera hot shoe) is broken rather than when it is made, but this happens so quickly there is no problem. The LEDs are also mounted in terminal blocks and are in parallel, so you can use more (or less) and adapt them easily.

 

The circuit I have used is the same as rtrski's instructions, though I didn't get it from him. I've just used veroboard, rather than try to etch a circuit board. It also just produces a single short pulse as the hot shoe circuit is made, so there is no problem with making the strobes continue firing.

 

Pete

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The D90 will only sync up to 1/200 with a non-Nikon flash, though it will sync at faster speeds with a proper Nik flash. Can't afford one of them....in an underwater housing as well!

 

At 1/400th, the shutter is covering perhaps 10% at the bottom of the image. 1/320th, it will be less but still visible at 1/250th.

 

Pete

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My E-PL5 is similar or somewhat better. Stock fastest sync is 1/250 and using a non-communicating flash 1/320 is clear, 1/400 gives <10% loss with my inons, which is not necessarily a concern underwater. (I might even risk 1/500 with 40% loss in certain scenarios)

 

What kind of LEDs are you using? I am planning to order a couple white ones just in case the infared wouldn't work.

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Hi,

 

Did some one use it with a Canon 600D into a Sea&Sea RDX-600D ? Did i have some modification to integrate it ?

 

I have a Sea&Sea flash YS27-DX .... will i have troubles...

 

Best regards

Edited by 006fazer

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Any idea if these would work with the nauticam d800 and YS-d1 strobes?

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I believe some have tried and failed to get reliable operation with the YS-D1's

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In the Nauticam 7D housing I can get the YS-D1 to fire about half the time. The issue is twofold. First the strobe trigger sensor in the S&S strobes is not very sensitive compared to the Inons. Secondly, I think the sensor in the D1 is not perfectly concentric with where the fiber attaches since if I put the fiber nearer the edge it sometimes works better.

Bill

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